Recover password. Remembered your password? Back to login. Already have an account? Login here. Please note: European delivery is temporarily disabled due to significant delays and other issues Important info for EU customers. Whilst we take every reasonable precaution to store our plywood and other sheet materials flat, in some cases there will be unavoidable warping or twisting.
Read on to find out the best way to look after it. Hi Darjan, we don't operate a Mill as we are only a supplier. Your best bet would be to contact a mill directly. Please please tell me how to get rid of I think vine marks.. I have tried sanding to no avail.. You will see similar price disparities in the Ply's we sell. Our suppliers have told us that making the thicker cuts is easier and marrying up the three ply pieces and keeping it within tolerance is MUCH easier with the larger pieces.
With the thinner cuts, the precision required is much greater, there is a lot more unusable output and it is very difficult to join together 3 pieces and have the result within tolerance. Dear Kitronik. I'm a builder using many different kinds and types of plywood. I've had a debate with my local timber yard about plywood!
Could you tell me if it is harder to make good 20 mm plywood or harder to make good 5mm plywood? Can you see where i'm going with this? Because the 5mm plywood that i buy costs twice as much as 20mm identical material plywood: based on thickness. Can you please explain? Shipping costs based on density and weight are identical. Yours sincerely. Hi Russel, this is not something we have any experience of.
Good Day, is it possible to get a floorplan or plan layout for a wood manufacturing area? Hi Fakhr, please contact our sales team via email, they will be happy to help you with your enquiry: sales kitronik. Im looking forward to hearing from you. I would be glad if you contact me via whats app: Best Regards, Khosroshahi Trading.
Hi Grace, without being directly a part of the production process it is difficult to say. If you were to contact a mill I'm sure they could better answer your question. Thank you for this info. What would you estimate the length of time from Forest to Quality Control is?
Hi, your best bet would be to speak directly to a mill as we are only a supplier. I hope this helps. Hi, I have an asignment to do about current Plywood production management. Can you tell me about it?? Hi Louis, thanks for getting in touch.
Your best bet is to contact a Mill directly as we deal with distributors and not the Mills directly. Hi, thank you for your enriching ideas. Am a forestry student specialised in wood transformation. Please can i have more details on the type of machines and or engines used along the production chain from forest to delivery.
Hi Debbie, there are a lot of things to consider which make it difficult to say with any certainty. Things like the type of fixings, the weights involved and the heat generated by the radiators etc. This probably isn't the advice you wanted but I would suggest consulting with a builder, just to be on the safe side.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. Hi i was wondering if you could help me if could you tell me if the Ply Boards could be used un painted,unstained just secured to the wall to hold up radiator brackets and a large radiator as my walls are plaster board and not very strong?
Or will i need to paint or stain also if the formaldehyde glue is safe for this purpose Thanks Debbie. Hi Aren, your best bet would be to contact a Mill directly. We don't have access to any further information than the info we posted as we deal with suppliers rather than mills.
Hi, I like the way you present your information. I'm doing a report on wood products and I would like to know if you can help me out, with little more in dept on the difference process? What are the various methods exactly? You can throw out the pad, but rinse the block—you need this later to apply the finish. Mix two tablespoons of dishwashing liquid into a gallon of warm water. Dampen mop to clean the floor and neutralize the etcher and clean up any remaining residue.
Make sure the mop is only lightly damp as not to cause any water damage to the floor. Mop in small sections and clean up puddles as they form. Wear shoe covers to keep the floor clean and free of any dust or particles. Then wait another 30 minutes for the floor to dry.
Use a tiny artist paintbrush or a cotton swab to apply some stain that matches the stain of the floor. Feather the stain out to make sure it blends in with the floor and then blot it with a rag. Dry the stain for a minute with a hair dryer and add a very thin coat of finish from the kit.
Then dry the patch with the hairdryer again. The last thing you want to do is get backed into a corner or not have enough hands to complete the task. Make sure all of you are wearing shoe covers. Put the finish applicator pad on the block and pour some finish into another plastic-lined box.
This way you can get a good coating of finish on the applicator and in addition to minimizing drips. To properly spread the new finish, work with the grain of the floor and gently pull the applicator at an angle so the excess finish continues spreading to the dry side of the floor. Have your other helper follow closely behind you to smooth out drips or puddles with a brush.
You want to catch any extra finish before it dries. Evenly apply the finish in as few strokes as possible for the best results—a single steady pull should do. Depending on what finish your kit has, you have five to ten minutes, and possibly less, before the finish gets tacky and impossible to smooth out. This is why planning your application strategy and having your equipment ready to go is essential. In most cases, one coat of finish is enough to restore the finish.
Before adding a second coat, make sure you have enough finish to do another pass over the room. Note that the can should be at least half full. If not, run out to the hardware store to replenish your supplies—you have to wait a minimum of three hours before applying another coat anyway.
Follow the directions on the package for best results. However, after eight hours, you should be able to walk on the floor with clean socks. You can move furniture in after 24 hours. For this reason, give yourself a full two weeks before allowing tenants to move in. This is still a shallow solution to repair surface scratches and marks.
Head to your local home improvement store to rent a buffer. Are you surprised? Make sure the room is empty of furniture and the floors are free of any gunk and dust. For these problem spots, use a scouring pad with mineral spirits. If your floors have exposed nails typically on older or rustic-designed properties , take note of where those are as well.
Return to the spots you marked. To make deeper scratches or areas where the finish is worn away less noticeable, they need to be doused with some mineral spirits to darken the spot a bit this works for lightly colored floors. Pro tip: Use two colors of stain to match the grain of the floor—it adds some dimension to the scratch so the repair looks more natural. First wet the section with some mineral spirits to test how it would look with a coat of polyurethane.
If it looks good, add a layer of polyurethane to seal it and let it set for two days before jumping into buffing. Nails that stick out from the floor will get caught in the sanding screen and wreck the screen, and possibly even damage the buffer.
Use a tool to hammer them into the floor. Either make them flush with the wood or sink them a little deeper. Then, let the putty set. With ridges, the buffer will go right through the finish to the wood and damage the stain. Panels many buckle in the presence of humidity.
You might also find a ridge where one plank sits a little higher than the ones next to it or if they cup slightly. First stand on a ridge to see if you can level it. Add a little bit of pressure and only go over the areas three or four times—that should be enough. For this project, you need a few sanding screens. When your floor is clean and the edges are roughened, put a sanding screen under the buffer. Pro tip: When you go to rent the tool, ask for a brief tutorial at the improvement store.
Prepare the space by opening your windows and placing fans in them, closing ducts, and sealing off the working area. Cover all doorways to the affected room with sheeting, and seal the seams and slip opening entrances of the sheeting with duct tape. Make sure you wear a dust mask. You want to check it every few minutes for a buildup of grit and remove any large pieces that will scratch the floor. Once a screen has worn out, flip it over or use a new one.
Begin with a fresh sanding screen. Turn on the buffer and swing it back and forth to properly buff the existing finish. Swing from wall to wall and work your way backwards across the room same idea as not wanting to back yourself into a corner. Thoroughly vacuum the room and wipe down the floors.
Like you would for the chemical abrasive process, also clear curtains, blinds, window sills, and shelves of dust. You want there to be as little dust as possible to prevent it from settling in the wet finish. Oil-based Urethane:. Water-based Urethane:. First, using a high quality paintbrush, start spreading your finish against the wall. As previously recommended, slip a shallow box into a garbage bag so you can pour the finish in and easily coat your applicator.
This is sturdier than a paint tray. Coat the applicator and then drag the applicator at an angle while applying firm pressure to the floor. That way the finish will pool and you can spread it in the direction of the grain. Rejuvenate Floor Restorer and Protectant is a good option. A revitalizer restores tired and dull wood floors by filling in scratches and adding a glossy finish with a minimal amount of effort involved—not to mention the material protects your floors from everyday wear.
Empty the room of furniture, take the doors off the hinges, clean the floor with a product specifically designed for hardwood floors, and ensure the floors are clean of dust and grime. This way, the revitalizer can really get into all the pores and scratches without particles in the way that might prevent it from bonding or give the floor a weird texture.
Since plywood is layers of thin wood glued together, it does not have the same strength as solid wood. But if you have a plywood base, what can you do? This instructable will show you how to install a threaded insert in to plywood but still have the strength of solid wood.
Also note, that this is being done on a piece of scrap plywood for testing purposes only. I have an upcoming project where I expect to be installing about 15 or so of these inserts. The base wood is plywood, so I wanted to see if there was a way to get the strength of solid wood while still being able to use the more cost effective plywood.
I'm looking forward to any comments that may improve on this. I decided to test installing one of these inserts in to my plywood base. You can skip this step if you know you want to install the insert in to solid wood. So it looks like this will work, but I'm concerned about long term. Over time, the device I secure with this insert may vibrate it loose and cause other issue. So let's see about getting the insert in to solid wood.
I cut a 2" piece from a 1"x2" piece of pine. For some reason I didn't take pictures of tracing the piece of wood around the space I wanted to install the insert, but the original hole is directly in the middle of the piece of wood. I chose to put tape around it so I could more easily see the border as I am routering it out.
Router out a spot big enogh to fit the piece of wood. Keep checking that the wood fits in to the routered space and that the depth is OK. If the solid wood is a little higher than the plywood, that is OK, it can be sanded down. Glue the solid wood in to the routered hole and let dry.
Once you put the solid wood in, use some glue to help fill the gaps. Ultimately you will probably want to use actual wood filler to get a better look. If you do plan on filling the gaps with wood filler and sanding everything smooth, do that now. You won't want to do it once to installed the threaded insert I will be painting the future project, so I would do that after sanding everything smooth.
Drill the correct size hole for your insert in to the solid wood and install the insert. You now have a threaded insert installed in to solid wood, but supporting your plywood base. This last image is just a comparison of the threaded insert being installed in to the plywood and in to the solid wood. There are a couple of pieces of information missing in this article. You do not go into the correct method for installing this type of insert. Your photo seems to show the insert being installed with a driver made for the purpose but many of the people reading this will not have one and won't care to buy one.
There are several instruction videos on You Tube that shows the installation of this type insert incorrectly. The slots on the insert are NOT for installing the insert with a screwdriver. This is a common mistake. They are to assist with cutting the threads into the wood and are inserted into the hole first. The correct method to install these inserts is to use a bolt and a nut of the same size as the internal thread of the insert.
Thread the nut onto the bolt, run the bolt into the insert to the end of the threads in the insert, snug the nut up against the head of the insert and use a wrench on the nut to drive the insert in flush with the surface of the wood, hold the head of the bolt and loosen the nut then back out the bolt and you're done.
Running the bolt to the end of the threads prevents stretching and deforming the threads in the insert. In a fit of annoyance we decided to ditch it. The problem was we needed to do it on the cheap. My first thought was to rip out the carpet and sand, then paint the subfloor and leave it like that until we had enough to put in hardwood floors that matched the rest of the house.
The downside to this is that there is nothing between you and the ground and without any protection other than the paint you might damage the subfloor and need to replace it not something I wanted to do. I'd seen this in some lofts and thought it looked pretty good. This is what we decided to do. We had two simple goals - put something in that looked better than the ugly carpet and for as little as possible. The best thing a about doing your floors like this is that down the road if you want to upgrade and install hardwood floors you don't need to pull up anything - you can install them right on top.
You might also need: Additional floor molding. When you take up the carpet there might be a space between the floor and the molding. We used quarter round shoe molding which matched the rest of our house. Make sure you use an oil based polyurethene made specifically for flooring. The oil based poly brings out the color of the wood and the grain and makes the plywood look "warmer". It's almost like putting on a mild stain.
There are lots of other choices you could make on the plywood. The thing you want to do is make sure it is hardwood and "cabinet grade". We chose the cheapest that fit the criteria but you could spend a bit more and get oak, birch, etc. It does not need to be thick we used 5MM. First thing you will need to do is move everything out of the room. This project takes some time, you can't do it in a day.
You need to allow for drying time in your planning. We were out of this room for around 3 weeks. To rip up the carpet just cut into it with a shop knife and start pulling. The carpet will come up and underneath will be a carpet pad which is glued on and also must be ripped out. Once the carpet and the carpet pad are up you will be left the wood and nails that the carpet was attached to. This will be ringed around the entire room. It's a pain to pull up.
You will need to use the pry-bar and be careful not to damage the molding. There will be lot's of dust and debis left over from tearing up the carpet. You will need to sweep and vacuum it up. The carpet pad that was glued on might have left some patches on the floor which you will need to scape off. Once it's all swept up and vacuumed, mop the subfloor to clean it and let it dry.
Apply the Kilz sealant to the subfloor. The Kilz will help protect the subfloor and help seal in any odors that have made it on to the subfloor. We started in the closet s a test. If you need to cut the plywood to fit the space, place the edges you cut towards the edge of the wall as the cuts you make will not be as straight and clean as the factory edges. Once you have made your cuts lay down the plywood sheets the way you want them as a test.
If everything looks right you are ready to attach the plywood to the subfloor. Use the construction adhesive on the liberally on the "bad" side of the plywood the side without the nice woodgrain. Once glued set the plywood on the subfloor and nail it down. I used a lot of nails as I wanted it to be solidly affixed and I did not want to have to wait for the glue to dry to lay down more sheets.
First I nailed down the corners and placed a nail in the middle. I did not measure, I just eyeballed it. I put down the plywood in sheets running longwise next to each other. There was a small strip on one side of one wall that required me to cut lengths of plywood about 4 in" wide stops of 8'.
At the end of the room I had to cut the plywood to fit. The pictures show all of this. The gap where the doorway is between the rooms is tricky. The floors between the rooms may not be level or made out of the same material and the gap will probably not be square.
Lay down strips of plywood to build up the gap in the doorway. Once it is relatively level you can put a "cap" strip that bridges the two floors. The most important thing I can say here is that you will need to improvise. It took me a while to get these to my liking and I ripped up my work and started from scratch on one of them.
To seal the floors follow the directions on the polyurethane. I purchased an applicator so I could do it faster - definitely recommended. We used four coats and it took a day between each coat. Now that the floor is down, you can add any trim molding that is needed. This filled the gap between the rest of the molding and the wall. I used the same finishing nails I used on the floor. Then I taped up the floor and painted the molding. After the floors dry and the molding put on and painted if needed you can bring your stuff back in and your done.
Question 2 years ago on Step 9. I have a kitchen flooring project in a remodeled Mobil home coming up soon. My question on the plywood flooring is, if I want to paint a design and seal would I use the cabinet grade plywood or something else? I understand sealing properly as this will be a much trafficked area but normally just one person and a dog. I have a beautiful grain 4x8 sheet tongue and groove plywood sheets Im going to use as a floor on a new sq foot addition.
I want to make it look like its a plank floor Great looking job. We're doing our bedroom now, only difference is we're going with Bamboo Hardwood. I really like to look of the plywood and may try to convince the wife to go that way in the kitchen, though she has her heart set on cork. Once again I think your job came out looking fantastic. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. How is that "saving" anything?
That's not a cheaper alternative. Reply 2 years ago. Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. I really liked the bamboo flooring I saw when I was doing research but in the end I went for the cheapest solution or next to cheapest solution as the cheapest would have been simply sealing and painting the subfloor.
Now that the floor is down, you can add any trim molding that is needed. This filled the gap between the rest of the molding and the wall. I used the same finishing nails I used on the floor. Then I taped up the floor and painted the molding. After the floors dry and the molding put on and painted if needed you can bring your stuff back in and your done. Question 2 years ago on Step 9. I have a kitchen flooring project in a remodeled Mobil home coming up soon.
My question on the plywood flooring is, if I want to paint a design and seal would I use the cabinet grade plywood or something else? I understand sealing properly as this will be a much trafficked area but normally just one person and a dog.
I have a beautiful grain 4x8 sheet tongue and groove plywood sheets Im going to use as a floor on a new sq foot addition. I want to make it look like its a plank floor Great looking job. We're doing our bedroom now, only difference is we're going with Bamboo Hardwood. I really like to look of the plywood and may try to convince the wife to go that way in the kitchen, though she has her heart set on cork.
Once again I think your job came out looking fantastic. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. How is that "saving" anything? That's not a cheaper alternative. Reply 2 years ago. Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. I really liked the bamboo flooring I saw when I was doing research but in the end I went for the cheapest solution or next to cheapest solution as the cheapest would have been simply sealing and painting the subfloor.
Good luck with the bamboo and post pictures when you are done as i'm really interested in how it works out. Reply 4 years ago. We did that when in a fit of allgery-exacerbated frustration I ripped all my carpeting out. I swear no one living in farm counrty should have carpet lol I used garage floor paint and sealed it this was before having three dogs it's worn horribly.
I have bamboo and I hate it!!! It's pretty as long as you just look at it but don't walk on it! What you did with plywood I think is way better. I have seen also where someone used a torch i believe and burnt plywood where it was a darker color. Also how far apart did you nail? Worried the floor will buckle. Reply 3 years ago. Nailed the finishing nails in a pattern to mimic the "real hardwood" floors in the rest of the house. Used a nail punch to drive the nails below the floor level and then the ploy covered them so it was all level.
Hi there. The finish on your floors looks really nice and smooth, with a bit of a shine. Is that right? I'm hoping to get it smooth enough for people to spin around on bare feet without too much friction. Do you think I'm on the right track??
I'd appreciate any suggestions you might have. As far as smoothness my floor is almost too smooth. In socks I can slide on it as if i'm on skates. My dogs can't get any purchase on it and just spin their legs like they are in a cartoon. When I mop it to clean it it's actually dangerously slippery Thank you for the post.
Also, it's not repairable once it has a dent by hard objects. Do you have any problem like that? It's been over 5 years and for the most part the floors are in good shape. There is an area under the desk where the hardwood chair has rubbed in a groove in the wood. You probably can't repair the groove but you could replace the plywood sheet. I could see that as a recommendation. But this floor was intended to be a interim fix until we could lay down real old school "proper" hardwood floors like the rest of the house has.
It was designed to be the very near the cheapest solution. That being said we only have one area of the floor that has been been scuffed up the sliding back and forth from the desk chair. It does not really look that bad and if I had been smart it could have been prevented. Otherwise I've dropped hammers, and other heavy hard things and floor has taken it without being damaged.
It's not frajile. The poly you put on it is very protective. That's not to say that your recommendation is "wrong" - it just was not a concern of mine for this project. If I wanted floors to last years I would not do it this way.
But this is WAY better than the carpet that was there and even though we will eventually put down regular hardwood floors we are in no rush. The nice thing with this is that when we do we can lay them right over this floor. Hope this answers your question Great post. We did plywood in our 70 year old house and 4 years later I still love it. We did it a little different in that we cut the plywood into12 inch planks and then stained it a pretty pecan.
The polyurethane then brought out the gorgeous grain. By jdfnola Follow. More by the author:. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Twisty Toy by rschoenm in Woodworking. How to Build a 30 Kilovolt Wimshurst Machine! Parado-Asi Pardox. BrendaD89 Question 2 years ago on Step 9. Answer Upvote. You now have a threaded insert installed in to solid wood, but supporting your plywood base.
This last image is just a comparison of the threaded insert being installed in to the plywood and in to the solid wood. There are a couple of pieces of information missing in this article. You do not go into the correct method for installing this type of insert. Your photo seems to show the insert being installed with a driver made for the purpose but many of the people reading this will not have one and won't care to buy one.
There are several instruction videos on You Tube that shows the installation of this type insert incorrectly. The slots on the insert are NOT for installing the insert with a screwdriver. This is a common mistake. They are to assist with cutting the threads into the wood and are inserted into the hole first. The correct method to install these inserts is to use a bolt and a nut of the same size as the internal thread of the insert. Thread the nut onto the bolt, run the bolt into the insert to the end of the threads in the insert, snug the nut up against the head of the insert and use a wrench on the nut to drive the insert in flush with the surface of the wood, hold the head of the bolt and loosen the nut then back out the bolt and you're done.
Running the bolt to the end of the threads prevents stretching and deforming the threads in the insert. Sorry to be so long winded but I wanted to save people the frustration of trying to install an insert only to get it about half way in and have the slot strip out and wonder what to do next. Been there, done that, don't want to do it again! Reply 4 months ago. The slots on the threaded inserts are supposed to be facing outward and they are for installation.
Here's an E-Z Lok bit that uses those notches for installing the insert flush. But a screwdriver works fine for soft woods, plywood, and MDF. I would give you just a couple more suggestions. First is drill a much larger hole right through ,drill from both sides to stop splintering and use a backing piece if necessary to stop tearout.
Cut a piece of appropriately sized dowel and glue it in with epoxy or polyurethane glue not PVA Put your insert into this. Alternatively drill and insert thread as above but glue it in place. Plywoods weakness is its edges ut glueing it in seals the edges.
I get the best results with epoxy and microballons mix and sand down and paint. Reply 4 years ago. I've thought about putting glue in to the hole just before screwing in the insert. I can't drill all the way through because the bottom of the bench will actually be a side wall that is exposed to the elements when the bench is closed. These devices were originally designed to be used in particleboard type products, allowing for a high strength machine thread fastener to be used in assembly of cabinets, this also included plywood and other manmade products as well as some plastics, so I do not see why the manufacturer would caution against their use in the above.
Although a t-nut is preferred for this type of duty, it is not always an option and these inserts handily filled a need. Introduction: Installing Threaded Inserts in to Plywood. By rsmaudsley Follow. More by the author:. Threaded inserts are a great way to be able to secure something to a wood base. You can skip this step if you know you want to install the insert in to solid wood A.
Drill the appropriate hole for the insert you will be using. Install the threaded insert C.